The campest castle in Christendom? Without a doubt Neuschwanstein, deep in the Bavarian Alps.
Amid meadows and mountains, King Ludwig II’s hilltop citadel soars skyward. The playful twirls of towers and turrets will be instantly recognised by anyone who has visited a Disney theme park: Walt himself chose Neuschwanstein as the model for the Sleeping Beauty’s castle. Copies of it decorate theme parks from California and Florida to Paris and Japan.
The Bavarian monarch envisioned a medieval knights’ castle that was “holy and unapproachable” and where he might “breathe the air of heaven”.
Ludwig called in not architects, but theatrical set designers who shared his obsession with Wagnerian opera – and were clearly unfamiliar with the concept of Mässigung (moderation).
They embellished Neuschwanstein with motifs from Wagner’s greatest hits. Elements from Parsifal – which resonates with lost souls – decorate the Singers’ Hall, including a mural of the sacred forest surrounding the Castle of the Holy Grail.
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The Schloss boss had a state to run. Ludwig ordered the living spaces and working-from-home area to be connected by an elaborate grotto. The royal bedroom, meanwhile, feels like a Byzantine chapel – complete with cherubs and starlight to lull a weary sovereign to sleep.
One castle is not enough for any self-respecting king. The rest of Ludwig’s portfolio comprises Herrenchiemsee, Linderhof and the Royal House at Schachen – all added to the Unesco list along with crowdpleaser Neuschwanstein.
The Bavarian treasury, though, was not at all pleased. The breathtaking scale and intricacy of the king’s vision took the state along the road to bankruptcy. Fifteen years after the foundation stone was laid at Neuschwanstein, but before all of Ludwig’s grandiose plans were fulfilled, Bavaria’s political leaders had their king declared insane. He had lived for less than six months in the castle.
Shortly afterwards, the beautiful dreamer died in mysterious circumstances – along with his doctor.
Just seven weeks later, Neuschwanstein opened as a tourist attraction, despite the king’s description of its location as. Since then the castle has become the icon of Bavarian tourism. And at last Unesco has recognised the cultural wealth of such glorious madness.
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