Escaping the well-trodden tourist trails of Barcelona’s coastline, a winding mountain road leads to a hidden gem nestled in the heart of Catalonia.
Vineyards cling to steep slopes, and vibrant wildflowers dot the landscape, hinting at the unique destination ahead. Just an hour’s drive southwest from Barcelona Airport, the Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno emerges from behind a final bend, its distinctive red façade a welcome sight.
This boutique hotel, opened just two years ago by the Stein Group, is a sensitive adaptation of an 18th-century estate. Guests can relax on private terraces adorned with climbing vines, a tranquil extension of the surrounding landscape. Inside, the spa pays homage to the estate’s history, designed around the original olive press, a relic of a bygone era that still stands today.
Even a widespread freak power cut across the Iberian Peninsula and large swathes of France does little to dampen spirits. Sitting in the sunshine, admiring the views with my wine cocktail, I can think of worse places to be stuck.
While I’m sure the hotel staff don’t share my relaxed reaction, there’s very little disruption, and a barbecue is produced to support the efforts of the kitchen.
“Everything is down but our attitudes,” I’m told, as undaunted chefs prepare a meal of multiple courses.
The power cut also does not impact me being able to enjoy a relaxing massage in the hotel spa, and a dip in the indoor pool, blissfully bathing in both the warm water and the rays of sun coming through the windows.
Dinner is even more impressive at the Vinum restaurant, with a stunning meal of grilled tuna cheek and a crispy lamb terrine produced by chefs wearing head torches.
A taste of the fruits of the land
A hot and challenging landscape means that not every variety of grape can thrive in this region. But in 2000, the nearby Priorat Winery was granted the top wine region grade, matching Rioja.
Chief executive, Sheri, takes us to survey the vines dotted up and down the hill. Next we see where the new crops will be harvested in the autumn, how they are crushed to extract the juice and processed along the way until they reach the barrel room.
Wines from 2018 and 2019 are currently being sold, but we get the chance to sample some of the younger wines at various stages still waiting to mature and finally be bottled.
Dining with 180 degree views
While the Priorat isn’t the best-known area of Spain for most holidaymakers coming from the UK, it is well-loved by wine connoisseurs and adventurers. Cyclists and climbers come for the quiet roads and many rockfaces.
There is also plenty to fascinate history lovers, including the ruins of the Carthusian Monastery of Escaladei. Abandoned in the 18th century, in recent years it has been opened to the public to visit. Courtesy of virtual reality headsets, it is possible to slip back in time to when the monastery was bustling with monks offering prayers and growing crops.
However my favourite visit is to the village of Siurana, dramatically perched on top of a hill.
We spot plenty of climbers across the cliff faces as we approach the village that earned its place in history as the last Moorish stronghold in Catalonia before it fell in 1153, leaving behind the remains of the castle as well as dramatic legends.
At the extreme of the village is Refugi restaurant, which offers tapas and wine to diners while they enjoy a remarkable panoramic view of the dramatic mountains around it.
How to plan your trip
Doubles at Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno cost from £360 per night including breakfast. Visit masdenbruno.com or call +34 877 676 070.
