The Essential Guide to Tongass National Forest

With more than 700 miles of hiking trails, 17,000 miles of creeks and rivers, and 128 glaciers, Tongass National Forest is a haven for those who want to experience “wild” Alaska. It stretches across approximately 17 million acres and includes Alaska’s coveted Inside Passage—it’s the largest national forest in the U.S.

“The Tongass National Forest makes up over 90 percent of Southeast Alaska,” says Peter Nave, owner and lead guide of Wild Coast Excursions. “It is a region of mountains and fjords, where towns are thinly stretched between steep forested slopes and deep, rich waters.”

Tongass is not only the largest temperate rain forest in the country, but the largest in the world. It’s a thriving biodiversity hotspot and the perfect environment for brown bears, moose, wolves, bald eagles, deer, and even flying squirrels. 

Located in Southeast Alaska, Tongass National Forest includes the Alexander Archipelago, made up of 1,100 islands. While cruising the waterways, you may see five species of Pacific salmon, humpback and killer whales, sea lions, seals, and sea otters, as well as several types of seabirds. In addition, the region is the native home of the Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian Indigenous peoples, who have lived in the area for thousands of years.

A popular access point is the capital city of Juneau, but most people come to the forest via cruise, usually entering the area through either Ketchikan or Sitka, Alaska. Depending on your cruise and how much time you have, you could explore the forest by hiking, fishing, dog sledding, or even zip lining.

Here’s everything you need to know before visiting Tongass National Forest.

Know Before You Go

You’ll want to be prepared for chilly weather by dressing in layers, and a raincoat never hurts—Tongass is a rain forest after all. Also, be sure to bring water with you and a fully charged cellphone. Since cell reception can be spotty in the area, make sure someone knows where you’re going.

While there is no official entrance (or entry fees), like you would find at a national park, the Southeast Alaskan Discovery Center in Ketchikan or the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center in Juneau are great places to start. Admission is $5 for adults, while children are free. You can learn about the flora and fauna, history, culture, and geography of Tongass National Forest by walking through exhibits, watching films, or participating in activities. Park rangers are on hand to answer questions, give suggestions, and hand out maps.

You will not need a rental car, as there are few roads in the area. Most people get from town to town by seaplane or boat. Drones are allowed in some areas. Just be sure to follow Federal Aviation Administration regulations.

Steve Blackledge, Environment America’s senior director of conservation campaigns recommends bringing binoculars. “If you’re from the lower 48 and aren’t used to being around bald eagles, these birds—America’s symbol—will take your breath away,” says Blackledge. 

Best Time to Visit

Most people would agree that the best time to visit Alaska is during summer, when the weather is warmest—usually in the 40s to 70s Fahrenheit. The darkest months are in winter, when there could be less than seven hours of daylight. You can see the Northern Lights from August through April, but you’ll have better luck further north in towns like Fairbanks. If you’re trying to avoid large crowds and high prices, don’t visit in June through August, which is the peak season for cruise ships. As many as 16,000 passengers could descend on these small towns during the weekends. Visit in November to attend the Sitka WhaleFest where you’ll learn about local marine life and go whale watching in Sitka Sound. September is the wettest month of the year.

How to Get There

The vast majority of travelers arrive via cruise ship, which typically stop in small towns such as Sitka, Ketchikan, and Juneau. Cruise ships typically visit Alaska from May through September.

Though it’s less common, you could fly into Juneau International Airport (JNU) or Ketchikan International Airport (KTN). However, you would still need to travel by seaplane or boat to reach most points of interest within the park.

Best Things to Do

See bears in the wild.

Watching bears in their natural environment is one of the best things you can do in Tongass National Forest. There are four observation sites that are managed by the U.S. Forest Service to keep travelers and bears safe. Most sites require permits and fees.

Watch whales breaching.

Getting out on the water is a must. Marine life is abundant here and thrives in the numerous channels, fjords, and bays within the forest. From humpback and killer whales to sea otters and sea lions, seeing these majestic creatures frolicking in their natural habitats is thrilling. Several companies offer boat tours. 

See a glacier up close.

Alaska is known for its breathtaking glaciers and ice fields, and there are several ways to experience them in Tongass National Forest. You could see them from the water on a boat or by kayaking or from the sky via a float plane or helicopter. Alternatively, you could simply hike around them or view them on a dog sled.

Explore a wilderness area.

There are 19 designated wilderness areas in “The Last Frontier.” You can fish, camp, hike, kayak, watch wildlife, or just appreciate the wild and scenic landscape. Two of the areas, Misty Fjords and Admiralty Island, are national monuments.

Best Hikes 

Mount Roberts Alpine Loop Trail

This hike in Juneau starts with a scenic ride on the Goldbelt Tram, which whisks you to the trailhead at 1,800 feet. The half-mile trail provides expansive views of Juneau and the picturesque waterways and forests that surround it. Be sure to grab a trail map at the Goldbelt Tram gift store.

East Glacier Loop

To access this roughly three-mile loop trail, begin at the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center in Juneau where you can first watch a short video about the glacier. The moderate trail will reward you with epic views of the approximately 13-mile-long Mendenhall Glacier that flows from the Juneau Icefield. 

Perseverance Trail

Head to the end of Basin Road in Juneau to get to the three to five-mile out-and-back Perseverance Trail. It runs along an old railroad and passes by out-of-commission mine shafts. This trail is dog-friendly and also open to mountain biking. 

Indian River Trail

Follow the beautiful Indian River about four miles (one way) to arrive at a dramatic waterfall on the Indian River Trail, also known as the Kaasda Héen Trail. It winds through a lush forest landscape just outside of Sitka. The trailhead is accessible via the public Ride bus from downtown.

Best Places to Stay

Raven’s Roost Cabin

Staying in a backcountry lodge in Alaska is on many people’s bucket list. Raven’s Roost Cabin, owned and operated by the U.S. Forest Service, is a tranquil escape since it can only be reached by helicopter or by hiking four miles on Raven Trail from Petersburg.

Mendenhall Campground

Peer out of your tent or RV for spectacular views of Mendenhall Glacier from this fully equipped campground near downtown Juneau. “Roughing it” is easy here, since there’s drinking water on tap, flush toilets, showers, and grills. Spend your days hiking and your nights around the campfire. 

Salmon Falls Fishing Resort

If your goal is to hook the “big one,” book a stay at Salmon Falls Fishing Resort. This all-inclusive resort in Ketchikan, aka the “Salmon Capital of the World,” has upscale rustic lodging, a waterfront restaurant with locally sourced cuisine, and guided fishing excursions.

Four Points by Sheraton Juneau

For more contemporary accommodations, stay at the Four Points by Sheraton Juneau. You will find all the comfort and modern amenities you would expect from a Sheraton. The hotel is conveniently situated in the historic downtown district, within walking distance of shops and restaurants.

Places to Eat 

Tracy’s Crab Shack 

Sink your teeth into a true Alaskan delicacy, Alaskan king crab, at Tracy’s Crab Shack. With two locations in Juneau, you can order a bucket of crab legs and claws, crab cakes, or crab bisque. Choose from red king crab, golden king crab, Dungeness crab, or snow crab.

Bush Pilot’s Lounge

Watch float planes take off and land from this kitschy waterfront eatery in Ketchikan, serving locally sourced seafood. At Bush Pilot’s Lounge, you can learn about the history of Alaskan bush aviation while dining on a three-course, made-from-scratch meal. Don’t miss the 3D-printed map of Alaska’s Inside Passage. 

Campfire Kitchen

Located in Sitka’s Harbor Mountain Brewing Co., you can wash down your craft beer with a piping hot artisan pizza from Campfire Kitchen. These hand-tossed, wood-fired pies come in six varieties, including “Break Up at Burning Man” with eight toppings. They also serve reindeer hot dogs.