The Essential Guide to Kamakura, Japan

Sometimes called Tokyo’s “Little Kyoto” for its abundance of temples and shrines, the seaside town of Kamakura has scenery in spades, a laid-back surf spot vibe, and a robust culinary scene. Tokyoites and tourists alike love Kamakura as a day trip because there’s loads to do in every season. 

Kamakura has a long history—in the 12th century, it served as the de facto capital of Japan’s first shogunate government. Even after power shifted to Tokyo, it remained a favorite retreat among the urban elite. Indeed, the imperial family still has a shorefront villa near Zushi Beach, a picturesque stretch of sand located just southeast of the city. Kamakura’s combination of old money, natural beauty, and proximity to Tokyo made it an artistic mecca, too. Painters Yuki Ogura and Seiki Kuroda and Japan’s first Nobel Laureate for literature, Yasunari Kawabata, have all called Kamakura home.  

Today’s proliferation of galleries and museums clearly show that the town’s art scene is still flourishing, although the modern iteration is more boho, influenced by American surf culture, which has permeated from the nearby United States Fleet Activities Yokosuka (a naval base) since the 1960s and onwards.

The result of these diverse influences is a small beach town with outsize clout when it comes to culture and dining. I’ve lived in Tokyo for 20 years and like to visit Kamakura to escape the urban crush from time to time. I also tapped Chihiro Moriyama, a Kamakura-based graphic designer and yoga teacher who’s lived in the city for 16 years, for insider tips.

Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip to Kamakura, Japan.

Best Things to Do

Kōtoku-in, selected by Travel + Leisure as one of Japan’s most stunning temples, is one of the biggest tourist draws in town, thanks to its 36-foot-tall bronze statue of Amitābha Buddha from the 13th century. It’s a must-visit destination, but Moriyama is partial to Hasedera, a hillside temple with city views.

“Away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist areas, visitors can experience shakyo (sutra copying) and shabutsu (Buddha image tracing) in a serene venue surrounded by beautiful rock gardens,” she says. “Shakyo and shabutsu are a way to calm the mind and reflect on yourself. Kamakura, the birthplace of Zen in Japan, with its historic temples and peaceful atmosphere, is the perfect place to try it.”

Moriyama also recommends a stop at Hokokuji Temple, which has a towering bamboo grove similar to Kyoto’s famous Arashiyama but without the hordes of tourists. “Have you ever listened to the sound of bamboo? If you press your ear gently against it, you might hear the flow of water or the wind,” she says. “There’s also a peaceful teahouse where you can enjoy a bowl of matcha.”

Kamakura is actually nestled in a basin, ringed by low mountains that are threaded with hiking trails. If you are feeling up to a hike before hitting the beach, the two to three-hour Tenen Trail starts from Kencho-ji, the oldest Zen temple in Kamakura, and winds through woods of oak, beech, and maple before terminating at the rock gardens of Zuisen-ji Temple.

“On a clear day, you may catch a view of Mount Fuji,” says Moriyama. “The scenery changes with the seasons, and in autumn, the trail features beautiful fall foliage.”

And of course, there’s surf and sand. Yuigahama is the most popular beach, thanks to its proximity to Kamakura Station. The official swimming season is quite short, and spans just July and August, but you’ll find surfers and beachcombers year-round. Local board shops also offer stand-up paddleboarding, wakeboarding, and sea kayaking. During summer, beachfront shops serve drinks and food, along with showers and changing rooms so you don’t have to ride back to Tokyo covered in sand. 

Best Restaurants

With so much foot traffic passing from the station to the beach, restaurants in Kamakura have perfected the art of the tasty takeaway picnic box. Moriyama recommends Antico Rondino, a panini shop specializing in Italian cured meats like mortadella, prosciutto, and porchetta. “It’s a casual and delicious shop located on the way to the Great Buddha that’s great for a quick bite or takeaway,” she says. 

For a sit-down meal, crowds tend to flock to restaurants with views over the water, like Australian all-day diner Bills or pizzeria Amalfi Dellasera, but Moriyama suggests Matsubara-an for a more local vibe. “It’s in a beautifully renovated modern Japanese house with a welcoming terrace space, where you can enjoy delicious soba noodles and a variety of seasonal dishes,” she says. Although it doesn’t have ocean views, it’s close enough to Yuigahama to enjoy a post-meal walk on the sand. 

Another option for noodle fans is Chaya Kado. From April to October, they serve the beloved summertime dish nagashi somen or “flowing noodles.” Thin, wheat-flour noodles called somen are washed down a bamboo slide; diners pluck them up as they pass, dunk them in a chilled dipping sauce, and slurp up as much as their stomachs can hold. 

Just five minutes from the station is the elegant Kamakura Fukumi, a tiny restaurant serving omakase courses for lunch and dinner. Kyoto-trained chef Ikeda draws on locally grown vegetables to produce elegant, jewel-like dishes paired with savory clay-pot rice from Niigata and seafood grilled over binchō-tan, a type of hardwood charcoal. “Each visit brings new discoveries through the delicate flavors that reflect the changing seasons,” say Moriyama.

And to finish off the day, the relaxed ambiance at wine bar Tres, run by husband and wife sommeliers, makes the case for lingering until the last train. Alternatively, a friendly pint or a can for the road awaits at Yorocca Beer Pub Sasameza, the taproom for hometown small-batch brewer Yorocca.