San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua Still Feels Like a Secret Surf Town

A quick, three-hour flight was all it took to trade in North America’s unpredictable spring for the steady warmth of Nicaragua’s dry season. It was April, and though the rains were still weeks away, the scent of the tropics—sun-warmed earth, distant greenery, a hint of salt—was immediate and unmistakable, especially after a long Colorado winter.

But the journey wasn’t over yet—my family and I were headed to San Juan del Sur on Nicaragua’s southern Pacific coast, a fishing village turned surf destination set on an idyllic crescent-shaped bay. 

And we weren’t alone. It seemed everyone we met along the journey—the family in line to board the plane, the couple at the baggage claim—was San Juan del Sur bound, and unlike us, they knew their way around. They spoke of the best surf breaks, where to find a good cup of coffee, and which restaurants served the freshest gallo pinto, Nicaragua’s beloved rice-and-beans staple. Some lived there full-time; others split their year between Nicaragua and the U.S. or Canada. The sense of return, of belonging, was palpable.

As our shuttle made the drive up the hill to our home for the week, La Santa Maria Boutique Hotel & Residences, I started to understand why. From our hilltop vantage point, San Juan del Sur unfurled below, leading to a large swath of sandy beach and a glittering ocean. Green hills framed the view, providing a stage for the setting sun.

It was beautiful, sure, but in the coming week, I would learn that San Juan del Sur is much more than an expat surf destination or a stopping point for wellness seekers. It’s a community with deep authenticity and a disarming come-as-you-are spirit. 

“San Juan del Sur is one of those special places where the natural beauty, laid-back lifestyle, and welcoming community all come together. You’ve got stunning beaches, incredible sunsets, great surf, and a town that still feels authentic,” shared Julio H. Arguello, CEO and founder of La Santa María Boutique Hotel & Residences, in an email with Travel + Leisure. “It’s especially appealing to those looking to slow down a bit and enjoy a more intentional way of living.”

For now, San Juan del Sur remains in a state of becoming—not quite polished, not quite undiscovered. And it’s that liminal quality—the sense of something both preserved and evolving—that gives it its undeniable charm.

Where to Stay

La Santa María Boutique Hotel & Residences

La Santa Maria Boutique Hotel & Residences sits perched above the noise, on a hillside with views of the ocean. There are standard hotel rooms and traditional, amenities, but the 7.5-acre property feels more like a neighborhood than anything else. Kids roam the grounds alongside peacocks and parrots, while an on-property coworking space sits adjacent to a tempting infinity pool. In addition to standard hotel rooms, there are stand-alone villas with private pools and apartments for longer stays.

“For expats, it’s the perfect landing pad: You get high-end amenities like a pool, a fitness center, a coworking space, and concierge services, paired with the comfort and privacy of a residence. But what truly sets it apart is the sense of peace and tranquility you feel the moment you arrive,” said Arguello. 

As protected and far away from it all as La Santa María feels, in truth, it’s less than a 10-minute walk to the beach and the heart of San Juan del Sur.

TreeCasa Hotel & Resort Nicaragua

TreeCasa is located roughly 15 minutes north of San Juan del Sur in the hills. The real draw, however, is its landscaping, which envelopes the property and surrounds the three pools, the restaurant, and the on-site orchard and garden.

Similarly, each room is situated among the trees, but it’s hard to top Casa Árbol, a two-story tree house with open-air showers and a wraparound deck. 

Best Things to Do

Surf

San Juan del Sur may have started as a fishing village, but it’s more of a surf town these days. The little crescent-shaped bay is surrounded by beaches with consistent waves for all abilities.

“There are beaches ideal for beginners, others perfect for advanced surfers, and some where surfers of any level can enjoy great conditions,” said Pedro Gómez Dávila, who grew up in San Juan del Sur and owns Tribu Surf. “San Juan del Sur’s location is also unique, as it sits across from a lake, which influences the local winds. For most of the year, the winds are onshore winds, contributing to the perfect waves and ideal surfing conditions year-round.”

In 10 to 20 minutes, you can be at at least five different surf spots, picking and choosing the day’s location based on weather and wave reports. For my surf session with Tribu Surf, we went south to Playa Remanso, known for its beginner-friendly break.

Parque de Aventura Las Nubes

Just over five minutes from the heart of San Juan del Sur is Parque de Aventura Las Nubes, a tropical nature preserve that protects sloths, monkeys, wildcats, anteaters, armadillos, and more than 100 species of birds. 

From the highest point of the park, which runs along the Continental Divide and looks out over the beaches of San Juan del Sur, a series of zip lines take visitors through the canopy, providing occasional glimpses of monkeys and sloths from the property’s viewing platforms.

“All of our activities are on the top of our mountain, which is the highest point of San Juan del Sur, where you can see the Pacific Ocean beaches, a Nicaraguan lake, and up to four volcanoes,” said the park’s owner, Adolfo Morice, in an email to T+L.

Big Sky Stables

There’s a distinct Wild West feel to Nicaragua, which is why the presence of Big Sky Stables, 20 minutes south of San Juan del Sur, feels so natural. With a stable of roaming horses and a curated collection of cowboy boots and pearl-snap shirts available to borrow, it’s easy to feel ready for the day’s ride, which can run along the river in search of monkeys or a cruise along the beach. I visited in the evening, just in time for a shady walk down the riverbed and a canter on the beach at sunset. 

Christ of the Mercy

It’s impossible to miss the statue of Jesus Christ overlooking San Juan del Sur—arms open above a cliff that frames the northern edge of the bay. The landmark, which feels similar to Rio de Janeiro’s Christ the Redeemer, is even more memorable if you make the trek at sunset and watch as the sun dip into the sea. A taxi can take you most of the way up to the statue, but the real reward comes from enjoying the breeze after making the 45-minute hike to the top.

Where to Eat

Ding Repair Cafe 

Ding Repair Cafe is the only place I visited twice, which is saying something in a town with really great food. The eatery labels itself as a “health food restaurant” and serves up an excellent list of smoothie bowls, sandwiches, breakfast burritos, and the best coffee I’ve ever had. Plus, they have outdoor seating adjacent to a skate bowl with skateboards for rent.

Simon Says

This little eatery is accessed via a doorway in the center of town that leads to an open-air oasis built around trees and hanging plants. There’s a $10 all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet and a lunch and dinner menu that features local, fresh-caught fish. 

El Timón

For a literal taste of San Juan del Sur’s fishing village roots, drop by El Timón, which is renowned for its fresh fish and on-the-beach location. The beloved eatery has been serving up Nicaraguan fare since 1979 and remains a must-visit for a welcoming, old-school approach to beachfront dining.

La Tostaderia 

La Tostaderia has an exterior that’s lined with palm trees and an interior that draws you in with its bright-blue walls and laid-back feel. Along with a breakfast and lunch menu, the attached bakery doles out freshly baked beignets, cinnamon rolls, and croissants.

Best Time to Go

The best time to visit San Juan del Sur is from May to November, when the rains have arrived and the landscape turns lush and green. Even in the heart of the season, which runs from May to August, Arguello shared, “The rain usually comes in the afternoon or at night, so you still get plenty of sunshine during the day.”

Dávila said, “What I love most about the rainy season is the consistent surf. For me, there’s nothing quite like surfing powerful waves surrounded by green hills and rich natural beauty. The rainy season is truly one of the most beautiful and invigorating times of the year in Nicaragua.”

The surf is great in the rainy season, but it’s generally good year-round. According to Dávila, “Consistent offshore winds, present most of the year, create world-class conditions for surfers of all levels.” During my visit in April, the peak of Nicaragua’s dry season, the waves were consistent and we even got a taste of the bigger surf when a swell rolled in.

How to Get There

Getting to Nicaragaua from the U.S. is as easy as hopping on a three-hour flight from Miami or Fort Lauderdale, or a three-hour, 15-minute flight from Houston, like I did. It’s one of the many reasons so many Americans and Canadians spend months in Nicaragua every year. And the journey is only getting easier now that Avianca, which is in Star Alliance with United, started offering new direct flights from Fort Lauderdale.

From Managua, it’s a 2.5-hour drive south to San Juan del Sur, which sits near the border with Costa Rica. The shuttles and taxis are plentiful—I booked with Bigfoot.

Another option is to fly into Liberia, Costa Rica, and make the journey north to San Juan del Sur, which is also around 2.5 hours by car.

What to Know Before You Go

If you plan to only visit San Juan del Sur, booking a shuttle or taxi directly from the airport is the easiest option. However, if you want to explore beyond the surf town, you’ll want to rent a car. A new coastal highway is underway, but many of the beaches still require a four-wheel drive vehicle.

It’s also important to note that in 2018, there were a series of protests against the government, and the subsequent fallout has been noticeable, with very few positive headlines about the nation. However, tourism is keeping many people afloat, and the Nicaraguan people couldn’t be more welcoming. I had no safety concerns while traveling with my husband and 3-year-old daughter.

“Nicaragua is a safe country, and it’s not as unsafe as the news sometimes portrays it or as some people around the world try to make it seem,” said Dávila. He added, “There’s a great sense of security in the San Juan del Sur area.”