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A Beloved Affordable Microbrand Just Launched Its Take on a Pilot’s Watch

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The rotating bezel was reproduced exactly, including the crown at four o’clock that screws down to lock the bezel in place. It has an etched 60-minute track filled with black lacquer except for the red zero indicator.

Rather than copy the simple hands used by Longines and Omega, Urban Gentry and Lorier got a little fancier with hour, minute and second hands that might be found on a 1940s dress watch.

The hands are heat-blued, just as Weems’s specifications called for, and, like the Omega CK2129, all three are distinctly shaped for clear legibility. A railroad minute track lines the dial’s outer rim, consistent with surviving “Weems” watches.

The Merlin comes on a deerskin leather pass-through strap.
Lorier

Another period-faithful liberty the collaborators took is using a deerskin leather pass-through strap. The underside of the case is beveled between the lugs to allow the unique strap to pass comfortably through.

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