Essential Guide to Annecy, the ‘Venice of the Alps’

Annecy, the scenic mountain town near the Swiss border, has long been a favorite in France for its beautifully preserved medieval old town crisscrossed by canals and stone footbridges—earning it the nickname “Venice of the Alps.” The capital of Haute-Savoie is the gateway to swanky ski towns like Chamonix and Megève, as well as the namesake Lake Annecy, which is an unreal shade of turquoise is so captivating, it inspired masterpieces by the likes of Paul Cézanne.

Yet, outside of Europe, this stretch of southeastern France is off the tourist trail. “While France remains the most visited country in the world, the vast majority don’t go beyond Paris,” says T+L A-List Travel Advisor and France specialist Mark Bonte, of French Side Travel. “Annecy is the perfect example of a destination beloved by the French but often overlooked by those visiting from abroad.”

Paris is considered the capital of gastronomy, but the Lake Annecy area has emerged as the lake with the most Michelin stars in Europe thanks to Franck Derouet of Le Clos des Sens and Jean Sulpice’s L’Auberge du Père Bise—both of whom place local and Savoyard-specific ingredients on a pedestal. “Savoie has all the beauty of everything people love about Switzerland—green mountains, alpine cheeses, crystal-clear lakes, cows—but at a fraction of the price,” adds Paris-based Catherine Down, a James Beard Award-nominated food and travel writer and culinary tour guide who visits Annecy on cheese-based pilgrimages.

As a writer who has lived in France for more than a decade, this is a city that continues to surprise me—and one that can truly check off all the boxes, whether that be culture and cuisine or outdoor adventure spanning from lakeside beaches to the mountains. A quick escape from Paris, here’s everything you need to plan a trip to Annecy—plus insider tips from local experts.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Impérial Palace

Hovering on the edge of the lake a short stroll away from Annecy’s city center, the Belle Époque beauty is a favorite in summer, when you can dip in the nearby Plage d’Annecy or catch jazz and classical concerts on the lakeside terrace. Attracting everyone from sultans and princes to Charlie Caplin and Winston Churchill in its glory days, Impérial Palace is still the place to be more than a century later—and the views don’t get better than the top floor Imperial Suite, where a terrace shows off 360-degree vistas of Lake Annecy.

Le Clos des Sens

Tucked away in leafy Annecy-le-Vieux (not to be confused with Annecy’s old town), historic manor-turned-hotel Le Clos des Sens is an intimate, rustic-chic retreat housing just 11 rooms that unfold around an infinity pool overlooking Lake Annecy. The eponymous, three-Michelin-starred restaurant helmed by Chef Franck Derouet is a destination in itself, paying homage to the natural surroundings with a meat-free menu heavy on fish from local lakes.

L’Auberge du Père Bise

Lakeside retreat L’Auberge du Père Bise in Talloires is a quick boat ride away from Annecy. Run by Chef Jean Sulpice and his wife, Magali, the onsite two-Michelin-starred restaurant, bistro, and delicatessen have made the former family home a must-visit in Savoie. “As a general philosophy, I often opt for properties outside the center of the action as this gives travelers the ability to unwind in a peaceful environment after a busy day,” says Bonte. “L’Auberge du Père Bise is the perfect example—just 25 minutes south of Annecy, guests can enjoy stunning views of the surrounding French Alps with Lake Annecy right at their feet.”

Cottage Bise

The sister spot to L’Auberge du Père Bise, neighboring Cottage Bise also had a gastronomic start that it maintains today at panoramic Les Terrasses on the shores of Lake Annecy. The family-run property’s 36 rooms and suites are scattered throughout three homes overlooking the water, and, despite its small size, offers amenities worthy of a larger resort, from the lakeside Boat Bar (a favorite at sunset) to a spa complete with an infrared sauna and body wrap cabin.

Abbaye de Talloires

The ancient, thousand-year-old Abbaye de Talloires, tucked along Talloires Bay, claims past guests like Mark Twain and Paul Cézanne, whose painting of the lake currently hangs at the Courtauld Institute of Art in London. “Inside the hotel, take a look at temporary exhibitions in the corridors,” recommends Annecy-raised Allison Gay, co-founder of Paris-based Blossom Art Agency. “The restaurant also serves great locally inspired cuisine that’s not too expensive for a three-course ‘bistronomique’ menu.”

Best Things to Do

Cruise Lake Annecy.

Cruise beneath the Pont des Amours (Lovers’ Bridge) in a sleek mahogany electric boat on an hour-long tour through the tree-encased Vassé Canal and into Lake Annecy, where you can eye waterfront villas lining the shore. “For just €30, it’s a great way to learn a bit of local history while soaking up the sights, skimming across Lake Annecy with only 11 others,” Down says.

Visit the Musée-Château d’Annecy.

Once the home of the Counts of Geneva in the 13th and 14th centuries, the restored Musée-Château d’Annecy stands tall over the old town and blends medieval and Renaissance architecture—the result of its shifting state from a residence to military barracks. “Enjoy a beautiful view over the city and spend time in the museum, which blends history and contemporary art,” suggests Gay, who recommends ending with a visit to the old prisons in the ship-shaped Palais de l’Ile.

Stroll Vieille Ville.

Vieille Ville, with its cobbled streets and pastel-colored buildings, is a place worth getting lost in as you discover its history through landmarks and areas like the five bell towers district and Le Pâquier, considered the “Central Park of Annecy.” Shop local, picking up souvenirs like Opinel folding pocket knives and cheese at the many fromageries before indulging in ice cream at Le Glacier des Alpes, which Gay claims is one of the best in town.

Cycle the Lake Annecy Greenway.

One of France’s oldest greenways, the lakeside route runs nearly 20 miles along the western shore between Annecy and Val de Chaise. Cycle, rollerblade, or stroll the greenway, admiring views of the surrounding mountains or stopping off at one of the tiny villages or beaches along the way. If you’re visiting in the summer, pause at the Prieuré de Talloires, “a hidden gem that not a lot of people know about,” says Gay, adding that you can pop in for a tour or catch an exhibition or concert in July and August.

Take a food tour of the city.

“Annecy is the capital of the Haute-Savoie, which is famous for its fondue and wines, so it would be a shame not to taste some during your visit,” says Bonte, adding that the Meilleur Ouvrier de France cheese shop Fromagerie Gay is not to be missed, since it’s one of the best spots to sample famous cheeses from the region, like Reblochon and Beaufort. “We can elevate this experience by organizing for a sommelier to introduce you to some of the wines typical to the region, including aromatic and fruity whites like Jacquère, Altesse, Roussette de Savoie, and Chignin-Bergeron or red wines like Mondeuse or Pinot Noir.”

For a quick dive into the region’s wines, Down also recommends stopping into wine shop Java des Flacons. In addition to indulging in the fantastic fromage, be sure to sample crozets, square-shaped buckwheat pasta. And for one of the top boulangeries, seek out Pan & Gatô, perfect for sourcing picnic fare and strolling over to the lake.

Best Restaurants

Bloomer

At Bloomer, an airy, mid-century modern bistro near the train station, the credo is simple: “Boire, manger, boire” (drink, eat, drink). And it’s not hard to do just that thanks to the standout selection of regional wines, with a few harder-to-find bottles from neighboring Switzerland. Plates champion some of the best local and seasonal ingredients for shareable dishes like white asparagus with pickled strawberries and goat cheese or bluefin tuna with garden peas and grilled padron peppers with pil pil sauce.

Galopin

Take a seat at one of the wooden tables by the expansive windows, where sun bathes the Scandinavian-inspired cave à manger in natural light. Galopin’s menu is heavy on plant-based plates inspired by chef-owner Julien Pradinaud’s local producers—all designed to be shared and washed down with a bottle of natural wine. “Grab a bottle to go, since the restaurant doubles as a wine shop,” recommends locally based Fiona Perrin, CEO and owner of modern Champagne brand Champagne Rendez-Vous.

La Table de Yoann Conte

The area has no shortage of starred restaurants, but one that constantly tops lists is La Table de Yoann Conte in nearby Veyrier-du-Lac. “It’s a hidden gem for those who value understated luxury and culinary excellence,” says Perrin of the chalet-like space overlooking Lake Annecy. “The chef delivers a masterful interpretation of the region’s terroir—each dish is a thoughtful homage to local flavors, crafted with precision and passion.”

Choral

Choral’s chef-sommelier team Alban Chanteloup and Aymeric Velluz have passed through the starred kitchens of Le Clos des Sens and L’Auberge du Père Bise, so plates and pairings are elevated, yet still feel approachable. The neo-bistro wine list leans on the natural side, and the affordable tasting menus feature playful spins like kimchi-topped oysters and grilled green beans with fresh green almonds and ajo blanco.

Mazette!

When you’re ready for a break from fine dining, Mazette!’s traditional bistro fare like homemade pâté en croûte and sausage with green lentils does the trick. The ever-changing chalkboard menu is scribbled with a selection of seasonally shifting plates, but you’ll always find classics like tourte de volaille (chicken pie) and andouillette (tripe sausage).

Best Time to Visit

My first trip to Annecy was paired with glacier trekking in Chamonix, and while the nearby ski slopes and Christmas markets make the area a favorite in winter (it’s truly like stepping inside a snow globe), ask a local, and they’ll say the best time to visit is between May and September. From June onward, the lake is warm enough for swimming or basking on the beaches, and the list of summer sports is nearly endless—wakeboarding, kayaking, and catamaran sailing are just the start. June is also when one of the annual highlights, the Annecy International Animated Film Festival, takes place with open-air movie screenings near the lake at Pâquier Park.

How to Get There

If you’re planning to fly, Geneva International Airport is the closest option—about a 35-minute drive without traffic—and offers easy access to Annecy by bus in less than an hour or via direct train, which takes a little over 90 minutes. Once you arrive, you can also hop in a taxi at the airport or reserve with a ride-share app like Uber.

From Lyon, it’s around two hours by bus or direct train, and tickets start as low as $14. While I’ve flown from Paris, I prefer taking the direct, high-speed TGV INOUI train, which reaches Annecy in less than four hours, with one-way tickets starting at $44. Once you arrive, it’s a quick stroll into the center of town.

Lake Annecy Villages to Visit

Talloires

“What I’ve come to love even more than Annecy itself is Talloires, a small lakeside village just around the bend,” Down says. “You don’t get the same crowds as Annecy, and it has an absurdly high concentration of gastronomic restaurants for a tiny village, including Jean Suplice’s L’Auberge du Père Bise and Auberge de Montmin.”

For a more affordable taste of Sulpice’s cuisine, book sister spot The 1903, where you can dine on hearty sharing plates while soaking up panoramic lake views. Or, pop into the onsite shop for something sweet like homemade ice cream to enjoy on a nearby waterfront bench.

Menthon-Saint-Bernard

“Annecy is an incredibly beautiful city, with its colorful houses in the historic town, but the villages around the lake are the places you shouldn’t miss,” says Gay, citing Menthon-Saint-Bernard as one of her top picks. “The landscape is breathtaking, and it’s where you’ll find the most authentic experiences.”

Dominated by the namesake château, which has been inhabited by the same family since the 11th century and is said to have inspired the castle in Disney’s “Sleeping Beauty,” Menthon-Saint-Bernard sits on the edge of Lake Annecy and is a favorite for its views—especially from the gardens of five-star hotel Le Palace de Menthon.

Pérouges

The perched medieval walled city is a popular stop for travelers heading from France’s culinary capital of Lyon, says Bonte. Dubbed one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France (Most Beautiful Villages in France), Pérouges’s architecture dates back to the 13th and 14th centuries and is some of the best-preserved in the country. The town has become just as famous for its storybook-like buildings as its namesake, butter- and sugar-slathered galette pastry, only found in Pérouges.

How to Get Around

You’ll quickly notice Annecy is a city best explored on the back of a bike. More than 80 miles of dedicated cycling paths run throughout the area and around the lake, and you’ll find plenty of rental shops right in town. No judgment if you opt for an e-bike and spend less energy pedaling and more time admiring the scenery.