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As a skier raised in Colorado, I thought I had California pegged—sunny skies, surfboards on Teslas, and ski resorts with more avocado toast than grit. So when I booked my first California ski trip to Mammoth Mountain, I expected corduroy cruisers and a crowd dressed for après.
Watch: A First-Time Mammoth Skier Shares What She Learned
What I found instead was something entirely different—and way more fun.
Mammoth is perched high in the Sierra Nevada on the rim of one of the Earth’s largest calderas. It is a mountain that lives up to its name. Towering over 11,000 feet and offering 3,500 acres of terrain, it’s massive in every sense. But what really surprised me was the vibe. Despite its California address, Mammoth feels rugged, relaxed, and refreshingly unfussy. It’s the kind of place where skiers bomb steeps, lap the terrain park, and grab parking-lot beers without a hint of pretense.
There’s a playful spirit here too; The resort’s mascot, Woolly the Mammoth, is known to do backflips, and there are tiny superhero figurines tucked into cliffs and trees. The ski area prides itself on its 300 days of sun and its legendarily long spring-skiing season, which often stretches into summer. (This year, the ski area closed on June 15, but after the 2022-’23 winter, it stayed open until August 6.)
“Mammoth is, in a lot of ways, a reflection of Southern California,” says Joani Lynch, vice president of marketing and sales for Mammoth Mountain. “We have a friendly and casual vibe here. Everyone is welcome, whether you rolled up in your Range Rover or Toyota Prius.”
I can confirm that it’s a sentiment that can be felt as soon as you arrive at the resort.
If you’re heading to Mammoth for the first time, here’s the ultimate guide, including everything I wish I’d known before I clicked in.
The Skiing
Mammoth Mountain is big, with 28 lifts and 178 runs sprawling across 3,500 acres. It’s one of the largest ski areas in California—and the highest. The summit reaches 11,053 feet, and much of the upper mountain sits above the treeline, offering expansive bowl skiing, chutes, and views that stretch deep into the Eastern Sierra.
While there are tree runs lower down, they’re not what Mammoth is best known for. Most visitors come for sunny-day groomers, high-alpine bowls, and one of the most iconic terrain park scenes in North America.
That terrain park reputation is well-earned. Mammoth has 10 parks, two halfpipes, and hundreds of jumps and jibs that have set the standard in the ski world for decades. It’s a testament to “that Southern California influence (surf and skate),” according to Lynch, who notes that the ski area lures hardcore powder hounds and adrenline junkies looking to claim bragging rights in the steeps and parks.
Despite its big-mountain terrain, Mammoth isn’t just for experts. In fact, the largest percentage of its trails are blues, and the resort has several lifts dedicated to beginners and families.
My March visit fell over the weekend, so I braced for the worst—long lift lines and crowded runs. But to my surprise, it wasn’t until late Saturday afternoon that any lines formed, and even then, they were short by Colorado standards. “The way the mountain is laid out allows for dispersal of skiers, so midweek can feel like you’re practically alone,” shares Ally Watson, public relations manager for Mammoth Lakes Tourism. “Midweek can feel like you’re practically alone.”
The Snow
When I skied Mammoth Mountain in March, it was windy—something I’ve always considered a downside. But my ski partner for the day, Emily, had a different take. She pointed us toward Dropout Chutes, a steep, exposed run which, at first glance, looked unforgiving: crusty, scoured, and windblown.
Just beyond the ridge, the surface softened. My edges sank into buttery, soft snow. It was my introduction to “wind buff”—a snow condition Mammoth locals treat with near-religious reverence. Emily shared that sometimes it’s better than powder because the wind is constantly replenishing what gets skied off, serving up a fresh layer of snow with every lap.
That magical snow is part of what makes Mammoth so special. The mountain averages around 350 inches of snow each season, thanks to powerful Pacific storms and a summit that sits higher than any other lift-served terrain in California.
The Town
The town of Mammoth Lakes stretches out from the base of the mountain and has a low-key, lived-in feel. It’s “the California that no one knows exists,” Watson says, describing Mammoth Lakes’ mix of nostalgic ski-town charm and modern amenities.
From the center of town, it’s a short drive—under 10 minutes—to any of the resort’s three base areas: Main Lodge, Canyon Lodge, and Eagle Lodge. But most visitors don’t bother with a car. Mammoth’s free, easy-to-navigate transit system connects the town and on-mountain lodges seamlessly. “Mammoth has a completely free-of-charge transit system, so no matter where you’re staying, you can leave the car parked and explore every corner of town,” says Watson.
While Mammoth Lakes is the mountain’s true hometown, many visitors—myself included—opt to stay at The Village, a pedestrian-friendly enclave closer to the slopes with its own restaurants, shops, and market. Though technically separate from Mammoth Lakes, The Village functions like a sister town that’s connected to the mountain by a free gondola.
Getting There
The closest commercial airport to Mammoth is Bishop Airport (BIH), which operates daily flights to San Francisco (SFO) and Denver (DEN) during the winter season. I flew United Airlines from Bishop to Denver at the end of my March trip. The airport and town of Bishop is around 50 minutes from Mammoth Lakes.
The other option is to fly into Mammoth Yosemite Airport (MMH) on Advanced Airlines, a commuter and private charter airline that connects Mammoth with Los Angeles (via Hawthorne-LA (HHR) and Carlsbad (CLD), north of San Diego, in the winter.
I was heading to Mammoth from Los Angeles, and flew Advanced Air. I found the whole experience to be the antithesis of typical airport travel; you arrive 30 minutes before your flight, skip TSA, and then join the 20 or so other guests for a 1 hour 15 minute flight to Mammoth. The ticket was just over $150, one way.
Where To Stay
During my visit I stayed at The Village Lodge, which is located in The Village near the base of the gondola. Getting on the mountain was as easy as riding the free gondola to the Canyons Lodge base area, and there were restaurants, bars, and shops just out the front door. The Village Lodge rooms also have full kitchens with sitting areas if you want to cook in.
Limelight Mammoth will be Mammoth Lakes’ first five-star property when it opens near the gondola in The Village during the 2025-’26 ski season. Expect the same chic vibe as other Limelight hotels with a dose of that laidback Cali aesthetic.
If you want ski-in, ski-out access, stay at the Mammoth Mountain Inn, which is located at the Main Lodge base area at almost 9,000 feet.
If you want to stay in the town of Mammoth Lakes, Watson recommends “Outbound Mammoth, which has been recently updated and hosts lots of events in their adjacent restaurant Bar Sierra. They have cabins, suites, and individual rooms with great communal areas.” Another good option, per Watson, is Alpenhof Lodge, which is home to the famed Clocktower Cellar bar.
Where To Eat
My favorite dining experience was at Vulcania, an Italian eatery opened by the famed Voltaggio brothers of “Top Chef” fame. Shelter Distilling is a good option for high-quality pub fare served with cocktails and beer that are made onsite. Both Vulcania and Shelter are in The Village.
In Mammoth Lakes, Watson suggests a visit to “the cozy and quaint Dos Alas CubaRican Café located at the edge of town with stunning views” (reservations are recommended) or The Lakefront Restaurant located in the historic Tamarack Lodge.
Where to Après
If you’re in Mammoth over a weekend, the best place to après is Canyon Lodge (one of Mammoth’s base areas). Lynch calls it the “hands down, best on-mountain après,” while Watson concurs that it “is the place to be if you are looking for Euro-vibes and dancing in your ski boots.”
For a mellow patio hang, head to the Yodler at Main Lodge for jumbo pretzels and a great beer list, per Watson. She adds that Gomez in The Village has “a tequila selection the size of my apartment and even bigger margs.”
For a bit more refinement, head to The Shed on Mammoth Lakes’ Main Street for wine and charcuterie.
Sidequests
Riding the Panorama Gondola to The Summit of Mammoth at 11,053 feet is a worthy excursion. The view on the ride up helps orient you and there’s a little museum on local geology and wildlife at the top. The best part? You can ski from The Summit all the way to the mountain’s base.
If you have the time, make the 30-minute drive to Mammoth’s sister ski area, June Mountain.
June skis bigger than its 500 acres, says Lynch, plus the grooming is exceptional and the views are stunning views. June also offers a more down-home vibe than Mammoth. Be sure to ride the older, single-pole double chairlift (J1) that takes you up the face of June to the Chalet, where the skiing really begins. “Great for families, great for cruisers and groups,” says Lynch.
