From the Caribbean to Saudi Arabia, journalist Erik Trinidad has been on more than 130 dives. Now, he writes about a snorkeling destination in the Caribbean so rich that it rivals some of his dives.
As a long-time scuba diver, I typically seek out the best scuba sites when I travel to the Caribbean. But in one destination, I didn’t have to strap on an air tank to experience the wonders of the local marine life.
In the Exumas—the sub-archipelago of The Bahamas comprising over 300 cays southeast of Nassau—I visited a magnificent site brimming with tropical fish. Known as “Thunderball Grotto,” this secluded, dramatic cave of jagged limestone, illuminated by sun rays peering down through natural holes in the ceiling, looks like a movie set. (And in fact, it was: the “thunderball” in its name comes from its appearance in the 1965 James Bond film starring Sean Connery, and it had made a few Hollywood cameos since.)
Lying between Staniel Cay and Big Major Cay, Thunderball Grotto is accessible by charter boat or by any of the all-day boat cruises that stop at all the popular Exumas spots. These include other “must-sees” like Pig Beach (literally a beach filled with pigs, as the name suggests) and the nurse shark sanctuary in Compass Cay.
Once anchored, it can take some effort to get into the grotto depending on the current and tides, since you have to swim and snorkel your way from the boat to the cave’s entrance. But once you’re inside the natural enclosure, the efforts will be visibly worth it.
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When I emerged from the waters, I saw its cavernous, almost cathedral-like interior. The rugged limestone walls reached to a ceiling with natural skylights, from which aerial roots of ficus trees hung like decorative drapery. It’s a majestic sight.
But the real magic was under the glassy, blue-hued waters that are so clear and transparent it offers mind-boggling visibility for snorkeling. The central pool has clusters of coral and sponges, attracting dozens of types of tropical fish. Snorkeling here is like swimming in a naturally-formed aquarium, where you’ll see the black and white stripes of banded butterfly fish, silver bar jacks, yellowtail snappers, multi-colored parrotfish, and yellow-tinted, striped sergeant majors, among many of the other fish found in the Bahamas.
The occasional scuba diver may dive deeper to see more of the underwater rock formations, but it’s not necessary. The spectacle that is Thunderball Grotto is already near the surface of the water.
